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“DRAGGIN SKIN” CLUTCH

 

 PLEASE DON’T CHANGE THE SETUP UNTIL AFTER YOU HAVE PUT THIS CLUTCH ON YOUR KART AND HAVE BROKEN THE SHOES IN TO FIT THE DRUM.  This clutch is assembled with the brown springs and will engage at 2,800 rpm consistently once the shoes have been radiused to fit the drum.  Drive the snowmobile for 15 minutes to “seat” the shoes, then verify the engagement.  Avoid stop and go starts, don’t try to see how hot you can get the shoes, drive normally and avoid brake torquing your engine.  After you have radiused the shoes to fit the drum, THEN YOU CAN MAKE YOUR SPRING CHANGES.

 

The clutch can be inboard or outboard mounted with no changes needed.  You can use six (6), nine (9), or twelve (12) springs in your setup.  Remember to do everything evenly, what you do on one shoe you have to do on the other two shoes.  The easy way to change the springs is to lift the shoes, springs and spring ring out from the clutch to take the tension off the springs.  Make your changes, then just ease the assembly over the sleeve of the clutch and pull the shoes out between the drive tangs.  It is very simple and there is no need to use needle nose pliers.  This clutch is designed to be user friendly.  Hint – Mark the top portion of the shoe with paint or a file to prevent reversing the shoe.

 

When you are done racing for the day or weekend, maintenance must be performed on your clutch.  Using a paper towel, wipe out the drum and bushing.  Next, using your finger, lightly coat the bushing with a 30 weight oil.  If any oil has accumulated on the shoes, use 80 grit sandpaper to lightly sand the shoes.  Use the sandpaper to rough up the inside of the drum.  Removing the glaze will give the shoes better contact surface.

 

WHEN YOU OIL YOUR CHAIN, DO IT WITH THE ENGINE OFF AND AFTER YOU ARE DONE RACING FOR THE DAY.  Hint – Oiling the chain the day of the race is too late.  The clutch draws in air through the holes in the drum to keep the shoes cool.  Any overspray of oil from your chain is going to end up in the drum and on the shoes which will vary the engagement consistency until if burns off.

 

Click to enlarge

 

 

CONVENTIONAL INSTALLATION

 

Your Draggin Skin can be assembled with numerous spring combinations.  Just remember the shoes must all have the same set up.  Tabs “B” can use a different color spring from those in tabs “A”, though the three springs in tab “B” should each be the same color.  Tabs “B” can also be left empty.

 

Click to enlarge

 

WEIGHT KIT

 

The weight kit gives you additional variables for a harder lock in, but because of the weight differential, you will have to use the next stronger spring.  The weight kit is available in either 7 or 10 gram weights.  The weights slide over the springs.  The kit comes with six weights and a snap ring.  Use the snap ring to hold the spring ring down when you use the weights.  Move the weights to the outside to make it easier to get the snap ring in place.  We recommend the weights to be put on the “A” tang springs (2 per shoe).  Some drivers have found that a single weight on the center spring of the shoe works better for them.  The 7 gram weights will bring down the engagement approximately 300 rpm.  The 10 gram weights will bring down the engagement approximately 400 rpm.  Once you find the combination for your track, it will be consistent for the season since there is minimal heat transfer to the springs.

 

FOR ENGAGEMENTS OVER 4,500 RPM

 

The Draggin Skin can be further modified to accept crossover springs between shoes.  Clean out the “V” on the back of the shoe where the spring goes in.  Two springs are going to fit into the same hole.  The first spring you want to put in will be the crossover spring to join the shoes together.  Next, connect the second spring to the spring ring.  Start with a black or red spring for the crossover spring.  RPM change is dramatic so experiment gradually and only after you have radiused the shoes to fit the drum. 

 

COLOR

WIRE DIAMETER

AVERAGE LOAD

USING 9 SPRINGS

(Red Shoes)

USING 9 SPRINGS

(Black Shoes)

Black .054 9.4 lbs 2,600 rpm 2,200 rpm
Red .056 11.0 lbs 2,900 rpm 2,400 rpm
Brown .058 14.8 lbs 3,300 rpm 2,800 rpm
Blue .060 17.7 lbs 3,500 rpm 3,100 rpm
Green .062 21.4 lbs 3,850 rpm 3,400 rpm
Purple .064 26.3 lbs 4,150 rpm 3,900 rpm
Yellow .068 31.4 lbs 4,550 rpm 4,100 rpm
White .072 36.1 lbs 5,000 rpm 4,500 rpm

 

The “Red Shoes” have more slip and are lighter.  The “Black Shoes” are more aggressive, giving less slip and will take more heat.  Adult racers seem to prefer the red shoe as it avoids pulling the engine rpm down due to aggressive hook-up.

Avoid oil on the shoes, this will give erratic engagements.  Sand shoes lightly if you see oil spots on them.

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